Do your backstraps work with Hogue Grips?

According to one of our customers, on Canik Mete's the backstrap works just fine with the grips.


What basepad fits my MC9?

  • The Mete/Rival basepads DOES NOT work on the MC9.
  • The classic and signature lines WORK on the MC9, but, The MC9 frame is narrower than the basepads made for all other Caniks. Thus our current basepads stick out a little to either side. For me, that's uncomfortable as well as a little odd-looking.
  • Are you going to make a proper MC9-size basepad = Yes, at some point a specific mag extension will be made.

Which mag extension fits my Canik?

All of them. Canik is nearly unique in that all our basepads work on all the Canik magazines and all the Canik firearms. The only exception is the Rival/Metes which can experience over-penetration problems. Use our mag extensions specifically for the Rival/Metes.

My magazines won’t lock into the magwell

That's normal -- and common with magwells generally. Your stock mags will work in our magwell, but you have to fit them a little bit. What follows comes from the product description on our website.

"Can be used with factory basepads, but you will need to make a slight modification to let the basepad travel all the way up into the pistol, as shown here: , and in this video:

All TF basepads for the Canik fit the magwell without fitting or other modifications.

Mixfllip installation/use review:


I’m only getting 19 rounds with a +9 

The idea that you're only getting 19 is strange too. 

First tip is this: Take the mag apart and put slight bevel on the bottom-most, rear-most part of the follower. What I think is happening is the follower is catching an edge as it tries to go down into the extension. Putting a little bevel on it should be enough to let it slide past any small burrs or protrusions.

If that doesn't do it, take the thing apart, then re-assemble it without the spring and follower.

Peer down inside the empty mag (using a flashlight) and see if you can see any metal protruding into the space where the follower and ammo need to go. If you can see a corner, take the system apart again and put a slight bevel on that corner - again, to let the follower pass more easily.

Don't be worried about that last part. Do what you need to do to get it to work. If rounding a protruding edge doesn't solve the problem, we'll still give you your money back if you return it -- no matter how many file marks and scratches it might have.


My slide isn’t locking back, what do I do?

That's not uncommon after the spring wears in a bit. 

We've got two options for an upgrade: 

  1. Grams +1 spring/follower kit: Provides +1 capacity (total of +5) but disables the slide lock function. link =
  2. TF/Wolff custom extra-power: Provides -1 capacity (total of +3) but offers very positive function -- both for feeding, and the slide locking back. Also much less expensive, since you're just buying a spring and not a spring/follower kit. link =

My +4 only gives me +1!

That happens sometimes. (It happened with my personal Elite SC.) What you're likely seeing is a slight misalignment between the inside of the tube and the inside of the basepad (the follower is catching an edge on the way down).

  1. Take the mags apart and set the spring/follower aside.
  2. Re-assemble the mags without the spring/follower.
  3. Look down into the mag tubes with the help of a flashlight, looking for any little bit of the basepad that might protrude into the area where the follower needs to go.
  4. Take the mag back apart, and round off the offending corner with a small file (or similar).
  5. Re-assemble, test, repeat.

ALSO: Three things to check, in order:

  1. Did you take the metal/plastic plate off the bottom of the spring? (Causes problems if you leave it on.) 
  2. Could the spring have rolled over past 90 degrees when installed? It's possible for the spring to roll past 90 and get stuck, leaving the bottom portion of the spring tipped on its side, while the rest of the spring looks/acts normal. (That's usually it when people say they're only getting +1.) 
  3. It's common to have some slight misalignment between the mag tube and the cavity in the basepad. What might be happening is the follower is catching on some small misalignment. Putting a slight bevel on the bottom-rear of the follower and the corresponding inside-rear of the basepad will let the two parts slide past each other more easily.

 The mags want to hang up on that exposed lip of the frame

The issue is that the sides of the frame are exposed and the magwell does not cover them.  I can even see light in the gap between the magwell and the frame.  Trying a couple reloads and mags hung up on exposed sides.  I guess I'm asking, is this the actual, intended design?  If so, I'm very disappointed and there are no photos on your site showing this.

It's a design issue -- but not the way you think. The issue relates to the Canik itself.  

The Canik magazine uses the floorplate as the over-penetration stop (preventing the magazine from hitting the ejector if you reload with the slide back). That forces the designer into a "Hobson's choice" -- let the basepad hit the frame as designed, or let the basepad hit the magwell. If you let the basepad bottom out on the bottom of the frame, you have to create a stepped funnel - with the problems you cite. If you opt for hitting the magwell, you can't use that basepad WITHOUT a magwell, because the magazine will over-penetrate and potentially damage the gun. 

In the current design, I notice the magazine wanting to catch a feed lip on the frame during a reload when I'm using empty mags. Using loaded mags, I rarely notice it. The rounded top of the first cartridge improves the transition. 

If that step bothers you too much, you can open the frame up very slightly to reduce that visible edge, but only slightly. If you over do it, the basepad will overpenetrate and, as discussed, potentially damage the ejector.

How tall are the various Canik basepads?

  •  +0 = 1/2 inch
  •  +4 = 1 1/8 inches
  •  +9 = 2 1/4 inches

 How much do the pieces of the Canik heavyweight kit weigh?

  •  Backstrap = 3.7 ounces
  • Magwell = 2.70
  • Basepad = 2.85
  • Comp Basepad = 2.70
  • Total = 9.25/9.10

Why brass versus aluminum magwell?

This gets technical quickly, but I'll try to make it simple.

Adding weight to the frame by way of a brass magwell or brass backstrap increases the non-reciprocating mass of the gun. While we talk about weight "absorbing recoil" that's a kind of intellectual shorthand.

Recoil forces will push the frame into your hand. By adding weight, you will receive the same amount of recoil energy, but because the frame is heavier, the frame will be moving more slowly when it impacts your hand -- reducing the shock you feel on impact.

Also the gun will tend to climb less because it has to move a heavier frame to do it.

The overall effect is to "mellow" the felt recoil effects and calm the overall behavior of the gun.

The brass backstrap has the most impact on this because it's heavier. The magwell adds weight too, and puts it in a highly advantageous spot. The magwell also lets you get maximum use of your pinky on your support hand -- giving you leverage as well as mass.

CANIK 12-rounder Only takes 13 with +4 ext:

It's pretty common to have the follower catch an edge on the way down in the 12-rounder. Here's my suggestion:

Put a slight bevel on the tail of the follower and at the top-inside-rear of the basepad to allow the two parts to slide past each other -- it's the same basic problem as shown in this video about M&P mags --

Another way to approach it is to take the guts out of the mag and put it back together empty. Look down into the mag tube with a flashlight and see if you can see any edges of the basepad cavity protruding into the space where the follower and spring need to travel. Take note of those spots, then take the mag back apart and round off the protruding corners just enough to let the follower pass by.

My personal SC did what you're talking about at first. I massaged the transition per the above, and now it works fine -- but I can feel a slight resistance when I'm loading it at that spot.

Do whatever you need to do to get the system working. Even if you slip up and damage the basepad, we'll still take it back for a full refund if you're not happy with how it works out.

LoK Magwells

According to customers our basepads work with LOK Magwells.

From customer: They 100% work on the Rival S and the polymer Rival with LOK backstrap /LOK magwell on polymer and Rival-S . They also work with TF brass backstrap /LOK Brass magwell on polymer Rival.

Will the Mete/Rival specific mag extensions work on a TP9?

The Mete/Rival basepads have taller shoulders to keep the mag from over-inserting in the wider Mete/Rival magwell.

Those taller shoulders will hit the frame early and prevent the magazine from locking into a TP9-series pistol.
That means you can use the TP9-series basepads in a Mete/Rival (with some overpenetration risk) but you can't use Mete/Rival basepads on a TP9 (at all).
And now a complication! -- Some of the newest Mete/Rivals have smaller magwells (bigger than a TP9, but smaller than an early Rival). The extended magwells that come with them are smaller yet. The basic guns will accept our Mete/Rival basepads, but the extended magwells require the older pattern basepads.
Confused yet?

Why are your Canik +0 Extensions a different shape than the stock basepads?

"Canik used that extended "nose" on their +2 basepad as an extension of the grip on the original TP9. They brought that magazine over into the newest generation of guns, and it works pretty well. However, having a nose on the front of the basepad means it tends to get hung up on things (like the other basepad in a double mag pouch) and makes it very difficult to make a functional magwell for the original TP9. (Long story.) In competitive circles, it's common to grind the "nose" off the front of the basepad (on the S&W M&P in particular). That eliminates the snagging issue and moves the center of gravity of the magazine back into the center of your hand. We incorporate all that into the basepad from the get-go, making the system easier to handle, less prone to snagging, and smaller/lighter overall. Sometimes it helps to think of something's opposite. Imagine making a basepad that has a longer "nose" -- one that's three times as long. The "nose" would hang up on everything and be a real pain to handle. How would you hold it in order to reload!?"

P226 Compatibility

One customer has had great luck with Canik +4 and +9 working on the P226 stock Mecgar 18rnd magazines and without any issues.  They won't work with the stock magwell on the gun.